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Montreal is a city steeped in French culture. Rich in architecture, history and the arts, Montreal also has a vibrant food scene, with French cuisine at the core of its gastronomic endeavors. In her new book, A Montreal Cook: Recipes and Reflections From My Kitchen, Lesley Chesterman (Make Every Dish Delicious) highlights foods harvested from Montreal’s vast culinary ecosystem, from its markets, butchers and patisseries to the region’s farmers, fishermen and winemakers.
Chesterman has worn many hats throughout her culinary career, including working as a pastry chef, food writer and restaurant critic. She uses this knowledge to share tips and techniques to replicate French Canadian cooking in your own kitchen, no matter where you live. For example, she admits that “one of Quebec’s great comfort foods,” poutine—a dish of crispy french fries slathered in rich beef gravy and a generous scattering of cheese curds—“isn’t usually a dish you make at home.” But I was pleased to find her recipe surprisingly easy and delicious, as was her bread recipe based on pain canadien, a tall and light everyday bread found in countless Montreal bakeries and residences. The book’s French recipes range from the relatively simple, such as croque monsieur and ratatouille, to more complicated, like gougeres (cheese puffs) and cherry and berry clafoutis (custard fruit tarts). And there are plenty of global dishes too, including a whole section on curries, a Ukrainian borscht and a delightful “pink salad” that features beets and Russian dressing. This colorful and sturdy chopped salad came together in no time for a satisfying addition to a midweek dinner, but it would also be perfect for a cookout or even a dinner party.
Many recipes are accompanied by gorgeous photography, and all feature a helpful intro describing the recipe or outlining a personal backstory. Chesterman also includes many sidebars and insights on topics from entertaining guests and brewing the perfect tea to her favorite Montreal restaurant and a spotlight on maple syrup, “the ultimate Québécois ingredient.” With its unique recipes presented via Chesterman’s culinary expertise, A Montreal Cook will take both seasoned and novice cooks on a pleasurable journey to this celebrated Canadian city.